Third Time Lucky

Andy and I have got history with Unicorn. I did a lot of my early winter climbing in Stob Coire an Lochain and remember looking across to this big obvious corner, clearly the line of the crag, never thinking that I'd be good enough to have a crack at it. Several years later we went for our first attempt. We didn't get very far, but it only increased by desire to get on the route.

We had another rematch at the end of last year. Andy took a couple of falls on P1 and backed off. I wasn't feeling in great form but set off up it anyway. My very ambitious goal was to get up to the fixed gear so I could lower off & get our gear back. Because of my low expectations, I headed up without any food or, crucially, a head torch. By some miracle I managed to climb the first pitch (taking something like 3.5 hours on lead!) but by the time Andy had led the second, it was dark and we were both frozen and exhausted so we abbed off.

This unfinished business had been on my mind ever since. Thankfully Andy agreed to humour me one more time and come back for a rematch.

Here we go again

As we approached, I was feeling confident - The route looked in great condition, I'd led the first pitch before and had succeeded on some hard routes recently, so surely this time it would go.

An hour later, I was about 10m up the route and struggling. The route was every bit as hard and awkward as I remembered. The gear was OK, although I wasn't sure I wanted to test it. I committed to the crux, one pick in the crack, one on a tiny thin hook and a leg bar across the flare. Then, disaster! The axe in the crack ripped and I came tumbling down just as I had a couple of years previously. This was not the plan!

Andy seconding the horrendous flare

I lowered back to the ground to eat, drink and chill out for a minute. Suitably refreshed, I headed up again and this time, pulled through OK. However the section above proved to be a lot harder than I remembered. Where previously there was some useful ice, this time there was just crud. I teetered upwards, making slow but steady progress. My frozen hands and soaked gloves fumbled gear, dropping the small nuts, but I pressed on and made it to the stance. I eventually managed to contrive a belay with the remaining gear and brought Andy up.

Don't fall now!

Andy headed on up, linking P2 and P3 to bring us to the end of the main corner. From here, there are two options: head left into the final chimney of Tilt (as per the first winter ascent) or head right and up (as for the summer route). We chose the easier Tilt option and topped out with daylight to spare.

The end is in sight

I'm delighted to get the route done at last. It felt harder than any of the other VIIIs we've done this year, and miles harder than Centurion a couple of weeks before. I'm glad I don't need to do that first pitch again!

Stob Coire nan Lochain

After a long and stressful week, it was a relief to escape into the hills on Saturday. I could only manage a short-ish day so Andy and I met in Glen Coe and headed up into Stob Coire nan Lochain. We were treated to a beautiful sunrise as we entered the coire.

Sunrise in Glen Coe

I did a lot of my early winter climbing in Stob Coire nan Lochain so it has a special significance for me. I remember gibbering up routes like Dorsal Arete and Twisting Gully and looking across at these mythical hard mixed lines, never expecting to be good enough to even attempt them. Central Grooves in particular became an inspiration for me and finally climbing it last winter was the highlight of my season, partly because I had aspired to it for so long and partly because it's just such a brilliant route. After that success, my attention turned to Unicorn, surely the line of the coire and a benchmark grade VIII with a reputation for excellent but very demanding climbing.

Looking up at the awe-inspiring corner line of Unicorn

That rare combination of a strong & dependable partner, good weather and good conditions was too much of a temptation so despite being a bit sleep-deprived and probably not as mentally focussed as I should have been, we decided to have a crack at it. The first pitch starts with a classic Scottish thrutch, struggling upwards with seven point of contact (none of them very inspiring). I made slow progress up this to a point where I felt more secure and could relax slightly, at which point one of my axes popped and I slumped onto the gear.

Approaching my high-point

I must have damaged my left crampon in the (tiny) fall as for the rest of the day, it refused to stay in place. This provided ample excuse to back off of Unicorn (lowering from a piece of in-situ gear which makes me suspect  I'm not the first) and find a more sensible plan.

We decided to head across to the North Buttress. I'd thoroughly enjoyed Crest Route and Intruder so we decided to do Para Andy, the big capped groove just left of Intruder. The first pitch was pretty straight-forward but good fun, as you can tell from Andy's grin!

Andy enjoying himself

Andy shot up the groove above, getting a little carried away and breaking out to the arete a few metres higher than he should have, which made for an interesting and delicate traverse and downclimb to the belay.

Andy realising he's gone too high

The start of the top pitch was even more delicate, involving a teetery foot-traverse across ledges to gain the crack. Once across this, the enjoyable, positive mixed climbing started again, with difficulties gradually easing as we neared the top of the buttress. This was fortunate, as my crampon popped off yet again while I was leading this pitch, making it feel a little spicier than it should have!

Me enjoying the top pitch

Despite not managing to get up the route we really wanted to, it was a good day out and a very enjoyable route. I'll be back for another shot at Unicorn some time soon!